Your next step is now to make sure that this ignition coil is receiving its triggering signal. This is the correct and expected test result and tells you that the ignition coil is receiving power and Ground. Your multimeter should read 10 to 12 Volts DC.ĬASE 1: If the multimeter registered 10-12 Volts for circuits labeled 1 and 3. Connect the red multimeter test lead to the positive (+) battery terminal. Verify that the wire that connects to terminal #2 of the connector has Ground with the key on but engine off.Ĭonnect the black multimeter test lead (using the appropriate tool) to the wire that connects to terminal #1 of the ignition coil connector. The method I recommend is to use a wire piercing probe on the connector's wire (to see what this tool looks like, click here: Wire Piercing Probe Tool Review (Power Probe PWPPPPP01). Trying to insert the multimeter probe into the female terminal of the connector, to test for power or Ground, will damage the terminal. Why? Because you won't be able to test the female metal terminals of the connector with the multimeter probes. You'll need either a back probe or a wire piercing probe. You're going to need one of two special tools to test for power and Ground. So in this test we're going to verify that they are present. If either power or Ground is missing, the ignition coil is not going fire spark to the 2 cylinders it feeds spark to. The ignition coil needs 12 Volts and Ground to be able to function. So, your next step is to go to: TEST 2: Verifying Power And Ground. To make sure, you need to verify that it is getting power, ground, and its triggering signal. There's a good chance that the ignition coil is bad. Your next step is to go to: TEST 5: Testing For Spark At The Ignition Coil.ĬASE 6: If you got NO spark from a spark plug wire and a spark plug boot on the same ignition coil. Your next step is to go to: TEST 4: Verifying The Spark Plug Wire Is Not Bad.ĬASE 5: If you got NO spark from the ignition coil sitting on top of the #4 cylinder spark plug. Your next step is to go to: TEST 5: Testing For Spark At The Ignition Coil.ĬASE 4: If you got NO spark from the #3 cylinder spark plug wire. Your next step is to go to: TEST 4: Verifying The Spark Plug Wire Is Not Bad.ĬASE 3: If you got NO spark from the ignition coil sitting on top of the #2 cylinder spark plug. Take a look at TEST 6: Misfire Due to Carbon Tracks to see further tips and suggestions.ĬASE 2: If you got NO spark from the #1 cylinder spark plug wire. The cause of your misfire condition is not due to a bad ignition coil. This indicates that the ignition coils and spark plug wires are OK. Read all of the options carefully to see which fits your spark result(s):ĬASE 1: You got spark from all cylinders. IMPORTANT: The following test result interpretations take into account if you got no spark from testing a spark plug wire or from testing an ignition coil. Let's take a look at what your test results mean: Install and bolt down the ignition coil back onto the #4 cylinder spark plug. When done, remove the spark tester from the ignition coil. The spark tester will either spark or not spark (as your helper is cranking the engine with the starter motor). Have your helper crank the engine as you observe the spark tester.
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